Gold-embellished combination overgarment tunic – UAE

This combination overgarment tunic (thawb_kandurah) is part of a three-piece ensemble, accompanied by two matching veils (shaylah tur) and (shaylah safwah) worn by Sheikhah Shamma bint Sultan bin Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan when posing for a portrait for Draped in Heritage exhibition curated by The  Zay Initiative in 2020.

Embroidered silk and metal waistcoat – Hungary

This heavily embellished waistcoat Hungarian dating back to circa the 1920s with heavy embroidered and gold trimmed detailing was purchased from an independent dealer in London by Dr Reem Tariq El Mutwalli 2017. It was added to The Zay Initiative to enhance its collection.

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Banarasi: A story woven in silk, gold, and sometimes silver!

After being introduced to the art of brocade weaving by traders from Persia and Central Asia, the development of the weaving industry was encouraged under Mughal patronage across the empire. The weavers of Banaras were skilled in weaving different types of fabrics, including silk, cotton, and muslin. However, it was the abundance of silk in the region that ultimately established silk fabrics as the cornerstone of weaving in the region.

Embellished and European Textiles in UAE Dress

Inspired by our exhibition called Bū Tīlah wa Bū Glaym: Spots & Stripes at Zaman Awal which focused on examples of two forms of fabrics traditionally favoured in articles of UAE traditional dress. This blog is overview of a wide range of fabrics and textiles traditionally used for women’s clothing.

Book Review: A Story of Islamic Embroidery

This book was originally published as the catalogue for the exhibition A Story of Islamic Embroidery in Nomadic and Urban Traditions at Gallery One at Emirates Palace Hotel in Abu Dhabi in 2010. The exhibition was curated by Isabelle Denamur.