Coarse Cotton Appliquéd Tunic Robe

United Kingdom

This particular item was originally designed for and worn by Sir Laurence Olivier in the 1966 film ‘Khartoum’. Olivier had portrayed the character of the famous 19th-century Sudanese nationalist leader Muhammad Ahmed Al Mahdi alongside Charlton Heston as the reappointed British governor-general, General Charles George Gordon.

Yarn Dyed Silk Jacket

Uzbekistan

This beautiful colourful men’s traditional robe or (khalat) was purchased by Dr Reem Tariq El Mutwalli from a dealer in 1996. Made in Uzbekistan in c. late 19th century, this chapan with distinct collars could be identified as menswear. It was eventually added to The Zay Collection.

Digital Printed Turban

Sudan

This artwork by the Sudanese Egyptian artist Amado Al Fadni was part of a collaborative work during his 2022 solo exhibition entitled ‘Alternative Museum of The Sudan’ at the Sulger Buel Gallery, London. It was later gifted to Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli and The Zay Initiative by the artist.

Golden Embroidered Silk Cloak

Syria

A French doctor was crossing a bridge in Paris in the 1930s when he saw a young man about to jump and intervened to save him. Years later, following the doctor's passing, his son sold two items that were ultimately acquired by the Zay Initiative at auction.

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Al Farukhah: Unravelling Its Role in Emirati Dress

Although the farukhah has become a defining characteristic of the modern Emirati kandurah, it has largely been neglected in both research and literature. In this blog post, we aim to shed light on its origins, history, and cultural significance by delving into its evolution.

The Tarbush: A History of Change

The word tarbush (also spelt tarboosh) can mean different things depending on the context. Its meanings range from articles of clothing to even dental crowns. In the Emirates, tarbusha refers to the tassel, or the farukhah, which is a triangular-shaped piece of fabric that descends from the neckline of the dishdashah.

This blog explores the tarbush which adorned the heads of many Arab men for over a century.